Tuesday, 15 May 2018

Dora was a wit

Have you ever thought that tatting could be knot-less? I love the title of Dora Young's book, "All new knotless tatting designs"! She had a great sense of humour!

The edging has been tatted with DMC white thread, size70. The first and second rounds are tatted with the "knot stitch" explained in Dora Young book, but with only one thread wound on core shuttle. The third round is rings and chains all 4ds between each picot (or join), only one split ring, to climb from second to third round.
(The butterfly is copper, handicraft from L'Aquila.)
Actually, I had a false start.
I started the one on the left, but I didn't like it, so I started again leaving more room between stitches.

Then, I followed a tip by Carollyn ( that writes she blocks her tatting overnight. She does tat wonderful things, we all tatters learn from each other. Lately she's been busy making again beautiful bunny shuttles, you'd love them!

That picture was taken after the second round:
The book arrived in a week, thanks to the great service offered by  Tatting and Design  in UK.
My copy arrived just in time to join the Online Tatting Class, last Monday, and to study the technique called "knot stitch" by Dora Young.

That it is not the same of the patented technique known as the split chain. Please read more
and here:
and here:

Also, Karen Cabrera shared a video (, where she shows the knot stitch (=ks) tatted in rows (that is she turns the work and go back for next row); while in the DY's books there are patterns with knot stitches tatted in rounds, for example in a doily (going always in the same direction, clockwise), and climbing up the next round with a lock stitch (not a full ks). During the class Karen shared her first sample using only 2 threads (instead of the 3 used in the book - great idea) and other tatters shared their samples, too.
Here they are:

I also shared my attempts, but not the very first ones, those were all knotted!
This time I started attaching the stitches to a piece of fabric, like in the edging N.21 at page 31 of the book, but I followed a triangular pattern, made up just to practise tatting the ks. For helping me to hold the picot in position, I used a paper clip, that turned out to be the key for me, otherwise my picots kept on closing. I started with 2 threads, one in the SH1 and one in SH2, then in 3rd row I added a second thread to SH1 and tatted row 3 and row 4, then cut out the 2nd thread from the shuttle and continued with just one. Two threads on shuttle tend to twist and I had to drop the SH1 very often. I used a  DMC size 40 cotton thread on SH1 and a comparable size polyester sewing thread on SH2 (gutermann ca02776). Only my personal opinion, but I like it a lot with 2 threads only.


Tuesday, 8 May 2018

Zoliduo again

Thread Finca metallic gold color 0006 n.2/C, zoliduo 5x8mm beads matte metallic lava red, swarovski pearl 6mm, rocaille miyuki 15/0 metallic bronze. And shuttles!


Tuesday, 1 May 2018

wonder! (chissà!)

I wonder if the venetian picot can set tatting forth to drawing new shapes... I'm very curious to see what tatting designers are going to do! In Italian I'd say "Chissà!" 💕💗😍
(how to pronounce Italian "chissà"

I'm very very happy to share here with you the pendant "Corallo", original design by Lalla Caliò. She shared it in an Italian tatting group in Facebook, and I love that so much, I asked her permission to post it here too. She kindly agreed to and sent me her photos, the next is a collage of her tatting:
In the next picture there's my attempt at the design by Lalla, I started a simple chain with 3 beads in the starting point, then there is a venetian picot with beads trapped in the top, that is the auxiliary thread is inserted and 3 or 4 beads are put just in the top, after then you go forward to the chain, passing each and every subsequent fhs (first half stitch) over the beads. The pattern goes on alternating chain and VP with a variable number of stitches.
That's lovely, isn't it?
After the first rosette and the the thin bookmark with venetian picots, I've been playing with the idea of "joining venetian picots", that is something similar to what I did in the body of Muskaan's butterfly in last post (butterflies).

I found that it's better to keep something like a pin or another thread (this works better for me) inside the top of the VPs, because it happened that when I was looking for the 2 top loops to join the VP, I had troubles, due to my short-sight and to the "shifty" picot.

I already wrote this but it's better to repeat, otherwise I'd hear you expressing yourself in French and that's not convenient for any nice tatter. You have to be very careful when joining, in fact you see that the venetian picots have two loops to be taken in the join, if you take only one loop they unravel!

Well, I have a little square that I think it's "the less tatting-like thing" that I've tatted:
--- Pattern ---
CTM continuous thread method
VP4 = venetian picot, in this case I write VP4 to indicate that the picot has got 4hfs, I measured all picots with a gauge of 4mm
puncetto tatting (also called the pointed chain): 
CWJ = Catherine wheel join
LJ = lock join
JSS  = Karen Cabrera's video 117 - Anne Dyer's JSS

Wind up 2 shuttles CTM. I used dmc ecrù thread, size 40.
The centre is a ring with 1ds, 7 VP4 separated by 1ds each, end with 1ds and close the ring, then I climbed to the first round with a line of puncetto tatting (5 puncetto stitches) and then
The first round is: a chain of 8ds, picot, 8ds, lock join to 2VP together, repeat all around.
The second round is: a chain of 8ds, then a CWJ in the picot, then picot and another CWJ in the same underlying picot, 8ds and LJ to same point of the underlying LJ, repeat all around.
The third round (is similar to 2nd but with VPs, that is): a chain of 5ds, VP4, 4ds, CWJ in the underlying picot, {FR: 6ds,picot,6ds}, and another CWJ in the same underlying picot, 4ds, VP4, 5ds, LJ to same point of the underlying LJ, VP4 , repeat all around and don't tat the last VP4, in fact that is the point where I climbed up to the next round, again with a line of puncetto tatting (5 puncetto stitches). (Maybe here I should have tatted one puncetto stitch more, something to tat again)

The pattern can go on and on, adding chains' rounds and VP4 all around, just increasing the right number of ds, that is what has kept me busy for a week, ruffling and cupping and grumbling!

Fourth round:  5ds, JSS to join the underlying VP, 10ds, then a CWJ in the picot of the FR, then picot and another CWJ in the same underlying picot,10ds, JSS to join the underlying VP, 5ds, JSS to join next VP, repeat all around.
Fifth round: 5ds, LJ, 11ds, then a CWJ in the corner picot, then picot and another CWJ in the same underlying picot, 11ds, LJ, 5ds, LJ, repeat all around.
Sixth round: (it is similar to 3rd but with VP4 separated by total 6ds, that is): a chain of 5ds, LJ, 1ds, VP4, 6ds, VP4, 5ds, CWJ in the underlying picot, {FR: 6ds,picot,6ds}, and another CWJ in the same underlying picot, 5ds, VP4, 6ds, VP4, 1ds LJ 5ds, LJ, VP4 , and repeat all around.

I stopped there. If you'd like to continue (and add your count for ds and VPs), don't tat the last VP4, in fact that is the point where you can climb up to the next round, again with a line of puncetto tatting.

I like a lot the Anne Dyer's JSS to join this tricky VPs. If you haven't read it yet, I highly recommend the book "To Boldly Go Where No Shuttle Has Gone Before or Tatting Definitely Not for Beginners" by Anne Dyer, it is one of the best tatting books I've bought.


Tuesday, 24 April 2018


I thought I would have had something designed and tatted with venetian picots by the end of this month, but I haven't. Instead, I love butterflies and the past week I lost all my tatting time to catch two of them!

The first one is the butterfly designed and shared by Muskaan, she asked us to beautify her already nice pattern:

That is my version
I added some downwards facing picots, that are explained here: (she has everything about tatting! Thank you Jane Eborall!)
In the little ring for the butterfly, for example, the original stitches count is 6-10, with the downwards facing picot, it becomes: 6ds, picot, 2ds, (seta, picot, setb), 6ds.

The next picture is to scale the butterfly to her real size...
I used a thread that I hadn't tried before, it's Anchor size 70, very similar to a size 80 DMC but much more soft

I hope Muskaan likes how I added the body and the head to her butterfly. The head is a ring (3ds, long picot, 2ds, long picot, 3ds). The body is a venetian picot, I think that is easier than the puncetto tatting that I used to tat for the body of my little butterflies, back in 2011:
(there's a set in Flickr, here is the link: tutorial butterfly on cloverleaf).
But you have to be very careful when joining, in fact you see from the close up picture next here, that the venetian picots own two loops to be taken in the join, unless they unravel.


The second butterfly is the one shared this week in the Online Tatting Class:
Pattern is from "Forty Original Design in Tatting by Nellie Hall Youngburg, Novel and Unique Designs with Complete Instructions for Every Pattern Designed and Executed by Nellie Hall Youngburg, Brookings, SD ©1921."
Almost 100 years and still flying! And that is the same age of my granny...


Tuesday, 17 April 2018


At present, focus IS the word...

I uploaded my "homemade" video, showing the beads covered with tatting, that is a variation of the method showed in "Lesson 180 - Prayer Beads" - a video by the expert, Karen Cabrera 😍( Thank you Karen, your videos are beautiful!

Here it is my video:

Wound 2 shuttles CTM. In this video, first shuttle is the yellow one.
Beads' diameter is 6mm. It is covered with flowers, that are 3 rings of 5+5-5-5, then last is a split ring:5+5/5+5

After the second ring, pass the thread of the second shuttle behind the thread of the working shuttle, then tat the third ring. Then the last tatted is a split ring: upper thread is the working thread, start the loop around the hand with that one, gently pull the second thread before starting the second side of the split ring. Then, pass a loop of the thread of the first shuttle through each picot. Reverse work and pick the loop clockwise. Pass both shuttles inside the loop. Pull the loop to close the flower, but first put the bead inside, pull the first shuttle to close the loop.
<<< Italiano >>>

Nel mio video "casalingo", vedrete una variante del metodo mostrato dalla vera professionista di video, Karen Cabrera: "Lesson 180 - Prayer Beads" ( Mille grazie a Karen, per i suoi preziosi video!
Con 2 navette. In questo video, la prima navetta è quella gialla. Il diametro delle perle è di 6mm; lo schema del semplice fiore che le ricopre è di 3 anelli di 5nodi, pippiolino (ovvero aggancio al precedente anello) 5nodi, pippiolinoi, 5nodi, pippiolino, 5nodi; l'ultimo anello è uno split ring di 5nodi, aggancio, 5nodi, poi con la seconda navetta 5nodi, aggancio e 5nodi.

Dopo il secondo anello, passare il filo della seconda navetta dietro il filo della navetta principale e fare il terzo anello. L'ultimo anello è lo split ring: il filo superiore è il filo della navetta principale (gialla), fare il cerchio attorno alla mano con questa navetta, poi prima di fare la seconda parte, tirare gentilmente il filo della seconda navetta per avvicinare i cerchi.
Rovesciare il lavoro per passare un'asola di filo della navetta principale attraverso i pippiolini. Infilare il filo in senso orario. Infilare entrambe le navette dentro l'asola. Per chiudere il fiore, tirare l'asola, ma prima mettere la perla. Per chiudere l'asola, tirare la navetta principale. 


Thank you for watching.


Thank you very much for all your nice comments.